Wednesday, January 04, 2006


Thursday, January 4, 2006
Le Petit Hotel Grand Case, St. Maarten

As you can see, I've jumped from St. Barth's to St. Maarten since we had to give up our villa, and I wanted to see how St. Maarten had changed since the last time I was here 20+ years ago. The island is divided in two: the north end of the island is French and the south end, Dutch.

The story goes that the French and Dutch both claimed the island at the same time. So some Solomon-like magistrate proposed that Frenchman and Dutchman start a t the exact same spot and run around to the opposite side of the island until the two met up again. The mileage each one covered would determine their claim. From the looks of the map, the Frenchman was a better athlete.

I'm staying on the French side which is quieter and tends to have better resorts than the Dutch side. For some reason, probably revenues, the Dutch opted to open casinos and that brought with it some pretty seedy characters.

Grand Case is a small village with a huge protected bay that offers safe harbor for sailboats that are island hopping. I can see at least a dozen 40+ foot sailboats hugging the northeast lip of the bay, bows pointing to the east to reckon with the prevailing wind.

Let Petit Hotel has 10 suites, all newly renovated with kitchenettes. The stucco structure is right on the beach and is quintessential Caribbean with red tile floors, individual decks overlooking the bay. I could hear the surf all night.

I arrived early afternoon and after a harrowing taxi ride through the entire Dutch side, I was greeted by Stephanie, a 30ish woman who acts as bellman, desk clerk and concierge. "Yes, I've been waiting for you:, she said smiling, in her lovely French accent ( she's from the Brittany coast ). " I have given you the room on the top floor with the lovely view, as you requested". I find it pays to ask.

I knew then that I was going to like this place.
More tomorrow. M.C.

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